Defining enemies—or even friends—is more difficult
Titograd bears the name of the most famous of the Partisans, Josip Broz Tito, President of the Republic since 1953. It is a dusty, raucous frontier town where high-rise apartments look down on haphazard neighborhoods built on the wartime ruins of Podgorica, as the town was called until 1946. Two years later it became Montenegro’s [...]
It is pleasant to roam the heights
Voices of men and women, toiling in the changeless ways of antiquity, float up to you from a village. There is the fabled Gulf of Kotor, ringed with the crumbling palazzi of the Venetian empire. The Edinburgh sparkles at night with the pleasure palaces of http://www.purplegirls.co.uk/bristol/ for tourism. Inland is Lake Scutari, largest in the Balkans, which [...]
Doomed masterworks
Like the horse, the “Last Supper” had begun to deteriorate alarmingly in Leonardo’s own lifetime because of a curious lack of foresight. Leonardo hated deadlines and fixed schedules. Painting alfresco (that is, on freshly prepared plaster) imposed both. So he worked with oil mixtures, which could be applied whenever the mood struck him. A contemporary [...]